Clams with rice and Verd Albera

What do you drink with tapas? My immediate go-to is sherry but having indulged that whim the other day in the form of a glass of tangy manzanilla amontillada from Lustau’s almacenista collection I unusually followed it up with a glass of white.

We were in one of my favourite tapas bars José in Bermondsey Street - named after its engaging proprietor José Pizarro. After working our way through the usual suspects (pan con tomate, jamon, croquetas* and patatas bravas) we had a couple of seafood dishes - garlicky prawns and clams with rice - that went brilliantly with a glass of 2012 Verd Albera, a blend of grenache blanc and muscat from Spain’s Costa Brava.

Despite the significant amount of muscat (30% I later discovered from importers Indigo Wine) it wasn’t overly perfumed but fresh, crisp and slightly smokey - a deliciously unusual fish-friendly white at a very good price.

*their croquetas are to die for. Some of the best I’ve tasted in or outside Spain.

Tuna Tataki and Grenache Blanc

Perfectly prepared Japanese food is not what you expect to find in the gastronomic desert of the Languedoc but this superb dish of rare tuna was a brilliant match for the richly textured white wine I drank at Côté Mas the other day.

The newly opened restaurant just outside Montagnac belongs to Jean-Claude Mas and is a major step forward for Languedoc wine tourism. He has installed a Japanese chef - Taïchi Megurikami - his marketing manager Brigitte told me, not to cook Japanese food but to bring Japanese influences and precision to the local cuisine.

The dish, which was part of a tasting plate of starters, was outstanding: a beautifully cut piece of tuna, served almost sashimi-rare, lightly rolled in finely chopped herbs and served with a julienned salad of cucumber and whipped cream with wasabi.

It was paired with the 2012 Mas des Tannes Reserve Blanc an unctuous, oily Grenache Blanc which had exactly the right texture and flavour for the soft, almost buttery fish.

At Côté Mas you can buy the wine from the shop and pay just 5€ corkage (or order it by the glass for 3€) but even in the UK it’s not a bad deal. Noel Young has it for £10.95 a bottle or £9.83 if you buy a case and Soho Wine Supply for £10.99.

Probably a good style of wine to pair with other Japanese dishes, I suspect.

I ate at Côté Mas as a guest of Domaine Paul Mas.

Roast turbot with wild mushrooms and white Minervois

I spent last week in the Languedoc where we visit quite regularly so there weren’t many new food and wine discoveries to be made but I think the most thought-provoking match was a main course dish of roast turbot with girolles and a bottle of Château Cabezac 'Alice' 2008 from the Minervois I had at a restaurant in Agde called Le Bistrot d’Hervé.

Turbot is a fine fish and this was by no means a major wine but it was in the right register. It was an unoaked blend of Grenache Blanc, Muscat and Bourboulenc - earthy rather than fruity - which suited the slightly meaty texture of the fish and richness of the accompanying mushrooms. A better match would have been a fine white Rhône such as a Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a white burgundy (or similar cool climate Chardonnay), a traditional oak-aged white Rioja or a bottle of Champagne which, by coincidence, was what the table next door were drinking with their turbot (Pol Roger, to be precise).

I bet they paid a fair bit for it. I like the food at this restaurant but the mark-ups are excessive, even allowing for the exchange rate. The Cabezac ‘Alice’ sells at €5.50 from the domaine and they’re selling it for 21€, almost four times as much.

Starters are pricey too for a bistro - between 12€ and 16€ and there’s no set menu on a weekend evening. It seems that bistrots, spelt with a ‘t’ are as little related to bistros as gastropubs are to pubs these days. Even in a small town in France.